There’s a new restaurant in town: Landmark.
Yes, Landmark has been a longtime fixture in Corona del Mar’s dining scene, but new owners Kelly and Scott Polston have transformed the popular late-night hangout into a fine-dining bistro.
The transformation includes a new chef , new menu, and new decor featuring more than two dozen pieces of original art (done in colors that cleverly match the flavor profiles of the dishes on the menu) in addition to a brighter aesthetic.
“We’re creating a chef-centric dining experience where the food is the centerpiece,” said Kelly Polston. “Our vision was to redesign the restaurant’s surroundings in such a way that they enhance every bite and every moment of the meal.”
To complete that vision, Travis Flood was brought in as new executive chef. His experience working in Michelin-star restaurants and having such culinary masters as Wolfgang Puck and Laurent Gras as mentors gives Flood street cred, but can his culinary concoctions gain acceptance in a traditional landmark like Landmark?
My assistant Catherine and I wanted to find out, so we accepted an invitation to dine at the Chef’s Counter in the Landmark kitchen.
Once our dining experience began, a bread basket was placed in front of us. This was our first indication of what was to come, because instead of bread, the basket contained pretzel rolls accompanied by hand whipped butter with whole grain mustard and a touch of honey.
“This is very creative,” noted Catherine. “The slight sweetness to the butter really goes well with the pretzel bread.”
Our first item was Chicken and Waffles, so named not because of waffles (there are none in the dish) but because the chicken is marinated in spices and battered in waffle flour.
“I like to play with my food,” said Chef Flood as we devoured the dish. “It’s familiar food but it comes across differently.”
The same can be said for the Spiny Lobster dish. We watched Chef Flood carefully slice the lobster tail (which was poached in lime, ginger and curry leaves) into thin slices, then adorn the sweet meat with onions cooked in curry, vinegar and brown sugar.
“Wow!” was all I could muster as I slowly savored the dish.
Up next was a Butternut Squash Soup made with maple syrup, carrots, celery, onions, brown butter croutons, parsley, celery, and – in the bottom of the bowl – Marcona almonds.
“I thought this would taste mustardy because of the color, but this is fabulous,” I said. “It’s unlike any soup I’ve ever had.
“The consistency reminds me of melted marshmallows,” added Catherine. “I really like this, which says a lot because I don’t usually like soup.”
We enjoyed a colorful Shaved Garden Vegetable salad, and then Pacific Lingcod with roasted tomato, fennel, artichoke puree, grilled bread, and bouillabaisse sauce.
“I love the sweetness of the vegetables, the ocean flavors of the fish, and the rough texture of the bread,” said Catherine.
“There’s a lot going on here,” I agreed. “I like the balance between the veggies and the lobster broth.”
As good as those dishes were, the next course proved to be our favorite, and not just because of the flavors. Chef Flood took pretzel dough, rolled it into the shape of a rope, and then formed it into what looked like a tree branch. After baking it, he placed it on a plate and began creating his masterpiece: Hanger Steak with brown butter potato puree, farm vegetable influence, and au jus.
“I love how the steak, mash potatoes and garnish add to the forest-like theme,” said Catherine as she took a bite of beef. “It tastes great too. I want to get a little bit of everything on my fork and eat it at the same time, because each individual item works together perfectly.”
“That is one of the prettiest entree dish I’ve ever seen. I don’t know whether to eat it or hang it on the wall,” I said admiringly.
“Some chefs might use a branch of rosemary, but if it’s on the plate, it should be edible. This dough reminds me of Manzanita wood–it’s very cool,” said Chef Flood, pleased with our response to his dish. “I look at my job as a craftsman, or an artist. If I do the same thing day in and day out, I’m not going to be happy.”
As usually, we thought we were too full for dessert, but we could not resist the Black Magic Chocolate Cake, which Catherine instantly dubbed “every chocolate lovers dream.” No wonder–the ingredients include smoked white chocolate caramel, espresso ice cream, chocolate ganache, peanut pralines, and raspberry gel.
Chef Flood also brought us a new dessert that was essentially a cake made with layers of pistachio cream, lemon curd and crepes, stacked 20 levels high.
“One of the most unusual desserts I’ve ever had, and one of the tastiest!,” I said between forkfulls. “Thank you for a memorable dining experience, and for inviting us into your kitchen. It’s been a truly enlightening evening.”
Appetizers are $9 to $20. Entrees are $16 to $45.
For reservations, call (949) 675-5556, or visit www.LandmarkNewport.com.
